There’s something I didn’t mention in the previous blog that perhaps I should have. (Hyperbolic intro, boiiii). Millions of readers have been writing in to ask me; why the bloody hell did you go to Yamanouchi, you idiot? A fair question, and one I will answer right now. Well, in the next sentence. Here, look –> Yamanouchi is home to the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, a park full of natural hot springs. Because of the cold climate, monkeys will often come down from the mountains to bathe in the pools, albeit being coaxed by staff feeding them at regular times every day. We wanted to get an eyeful of that shit. However, following the catastrophic Typhoon Hagibis that hit the mainland in October this year, the monkeys had not been seen in the pools since (there had been some structural damage to the pool walls). STOP CRYING, they were just up in the mountains somewhere, chilling out.
Anyway, the park was still open, and our hotel owner said to meet him at 9am in the foyer and he’d drive us to the park. On the park website, you can view a few webcams placed around the pools and upon waking; no monkeys. Sadness. We decided to skip the park, which seemed to disappoint the hotel owner (strangely – I mean, he reiterated there were no monkeys there). Instead, we took a wander around the town we were staying at. We found a big ol’ Buddha and a massive bell for ringing, which I did, and shouted “last orders please!” very quietly, for the lols of everyone there (me and Julie).
We decided we’d head back to Tokyo, giving us the gift of time (as we’d have spent a fair while at the park). On the train back, the sunshine broke out and that gave us a splendid rainbow. Thanks, ecosystem!

We arrived at Nagano for our transfer back to Tokyo and had a little time to explore. Trusty Google was our friend, and we found ourselves in Widow’s Record; a little cafe that housed a wall full of second-hand records. We got ourselves a hot chocolate each, and set about finding an LP that would compliment it. We settled on Hendrix’s ‘Are You Experienced?’, which just oozed warmth coming out of the hi-tec amp and speakers. Such a lovely little cafe, which according to Google, could get quite busy at the weekend. We also debated the origin of the cafe name (not with the woman herself, that would have been sadistic) and our estimations were correct. This lady’s fella had passed away and left her with all these records in the will, so she opened up a coffee shop in his honour. Is it dusty in here? 😦 Oh, it’s just the second-hand vinyl.

We arrived back in Tokyo and decided we’d go to Anata No Warehouse. Now, this was a place on our planning longlist that didn’t make the cut, but now we had the time, and with it being its last ever night in existence (it was to shut its doors forever that evening) we felt we should go check it out. The warehouse was in an area of Tokyo called Kawasaki, the place itself being in this huge dystopian building which was giving huge Blade Runner vibes. The inside had a similar aesthetic too, complete with 5 floors full of arcades and such.
Quelle surprise, it was far too busy to get anything done in there. We spent most of the time stood by the dance mats, marvelling at the Japanese teens who were crazily good at them. They were all doing the moves at the same time as the animations on the screen; this was clearly one last blow out. We wandered around the 5 floors, to find the best arcades had queues, and the pool and ping pong tables had 60+ minute waiting times. You wouldn’t get that in Common Room in town would you, pft. In all the time we spent in there, the only game I played was Q-Bert. HANG ON, slight tangent, where’s my Q-Bert t-shirt?? Julie, when you read this, tell me if you’ve seen it please. Thanks.
We left the warehouse via stepping stones over some radioactive slime, which was all there for effect – I think? Yeah. We were at a bit of a loose end at this point, so I found us a jazz gig to go seek out. It was in a place called Shimokitazawa which, yes, ok, I was also excited to find was the ‘hipster capital’ of Tokyo.
We didn’t spend bags of time in the area as it was pretty late, but to be fair, it did seem like a very cool neighbourhood. A lot of mid-20s alternative Japanese people around, cool bars and restaurants, and some most excellent neon signs towered above us. Photos obviously don’t do ANYTHING justice, never mind neon signs, but here, have a look.

It took us an age, but we eventually found the gig venue down some steps into a basement. I could hear the sweet tones of a breathy sax solo, backed by some jazzy guitar chords. We excitedly hurried down the steps and I pushed the door open like some trigger-happy SWAT team member. The door actually hit a table, the only table, in the room. The four people sat at it, turned to look at me. I shifted my eyes to the left – a tiny bar, with 2 men scrunched up against it. I look to the right and I meet the guitarists eyes, which wasn’t hard as he was a mere five metres away. Basically, this gig was a great success, a sell out! It was packed! I can only hope the six of them enjoyed the show.
We wandered around some more trying to find another gig. We eventually found an indie gig above a record store – we got to the top to find a chap manning a table that said “2500 YEN” (that’s £17 or so) for what was a local band playing in a small-ish room. They were actually playing their very last song so he waved us in. The song was pretty good actually, 90’s Radiohead vibes.
We left the venue, and that was us done for the evening. We made our way back to our hotel, but not before picking up some snacks to eat in our room. CRUSTS OFF EGG SANDWICH, MAAAATE.












































